Tuesday, February 2, 2010

El Dorado County loaded with California history, beautiful landscapes and charm





Framing the Teahouse at VikingsHolm on Lake Tahoe.

I just returned from an eight-day stay in South Lake Tahoe and the gold and wine areas of El Dorado County.
I can tell you that gambling is down on the Nevada side of Tahoe, but skiing is up at Heavenly, the second largest ski resort in the country behind Vail, Colorado. Harrah’s, Harvey’s, Mont Bleu and Horizon are feeling the economic crunch.
To say casino action was dead during the day would be an understatement. Gambling picked up at night but still way down from the days prior to the economy tanking in 2008.
Skiing was excellent at Heavenly — even on the foggy days. Moonlight snowshoeing at Camp Richardson was a real treat as was a helicopter photoshoot I experienced with HeliTahoe. I rode in a 2004 Robinson R44 Raven II helicopter, one of the safest and quietest in the industry.
We flew around the Lake and hovered above mountain peaks. For prices and tour times, go to www.heliTahoe.com.
I had a spectacular meal of perfectly-cooked lamb chops at Cafe Fiore, a quaint, romantic and cozy little restaurant that seats about 20.
Moving on to the heart of El Dorado County, I stayed at two totally different, but equally as comfortable and hospitable, B&Bs.
I stayed two nights at Coloma Country Inn, only a short walk to Sutter’s Mill and discovery of gold in California by James Marshall on Jan. 24, 1848 (photo at right). This is where it all began for California. A year and a half after Marshall’s discovery, California became a state.
Innkeepers Craig and Marjorie Sanborn (www.colomacountryinn.com) made me feel like I was family. And my two breakfasts’ were as good as it gets. What I couldn’t eat, Johnny, the B&B’s resident dog, did.
Coloma Country Inn is rustic, with a warm, down-home ambiance. My first morning, I hiked the historic trail, which was a short walk from Craig and Marjorie’s place. I passed the Olde Coloma Theatre, the James Marshall Monument, a Catholic cemetery behind St. John’s Church, with gravestones dating back to the early 19th century; Marshall’s cabin and Pioneer Cemetery.
El Dorado County also has more than 85 wineries, producing a number of award-winning wines. The area is rich in history and offers a diversity in the landscape that reminded me a great deal of my birthplace in New England.
When it comes to running the rapids, the American River is one of the most popular in America.
Placerville is a great old gold rush town named after the placer gold deposits found in its river beds and hills in the late 1840s. Its 19th century downtown architecture reflects Placerville’s historic past. My other B&B stay was at Lucinda’s Country Inn (www.lucindascountryinn.com) in Fair Play. This is a modern B&B with quality amenities. The inn is surrounded by wineries, with many of the varieties offered during a nightly wine reception in the great room that is warmed on chilly days by a wood-burning fireplace. There are 20 wineries within a seven-mile radius. Hospitality is provided by innkeeepers Daryl and Cindy (Lucinda) Sullivan. They built this place themselves — along with their son — and they did a remarkable job. Ask for a tour. It will blow your mind.

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