Telluride a winter, summer playground

The building, from left, where Butch Cassidy held his first bank robbery, an aerial view of Telluride and Bridal Veil Falls east of town.

Story & Photos By Stan Wawer

There’s only one way in and one way out. It didn’t stop Butch Cassidy from getting away after a bank robbery, but it has made Telluride a unique town tucked away in the southwest corner of Colorado, protected by the 13,000-foot peaks of the impressive San Juan Mountain Range.

Telluride is no lonesome valley, however. It is a winter playground with some of the best powdered snow in the world and there are enough summer activities to keep the most energetic family busy.

What began as a turn-of-the-century mining community has evolved into a world-renowned resort on the scenic San Juan Skyway.

“I love Telluride. I love the snow,” said avid skier Peter Bally, former managing director of Park Hotel Vitznau on Switzerland’s Lake Lucerne. The hotel closes at the end of October and that’s when Bally used to head for Telluride, Vail and Keystone in Colorado. “The powdered snow is the best,” he said.

Helicopter skiing is popular on Colorado’s famous “champagne powder,” but so is snow boarding, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, snow shoeing and downhill skiing.

In the summer, a plethora of activities include jeep tours to the mining towns at elevations up to 12,000 feet, hiking, biking, camping, rock climbing, historic tours, fishing, glider rides, horseback riding, kayaking, rafting, golf and shopping.

Telluride, of course, has an abundance of night life and excellent restaurants. One historical tour takes you to 131 Main St., the former site of San Miguel Valley Bank. It was the site of Butch Cassidy’s first bank robbery, which took place on June 24, 1889. He and his partner (this was before the Sundance Kid) got away with $24,000. The money was never recovered.

Summer season ends with the Telluride Film Festival Labor Day weekend. This year’s film festival runs Sept. 3 to Sept. 6. The festival’s more than 30 programs are screened in nine different venues in Telluride and Mountain Village, which is reachable by a spectacular and free gondola that takes about 10 to 15 minutes.

The summer is loaded with festivals, including the famous Music-Bluegrass Festival in June, the Telluride Jazz Celebration in August and the Telluride Blues and Brews Festival in late September.

Telluride also is holding its first Photography Festival Sept. 20 to 26. The festival will feature field classes and workshops, seminars, portfolio reviews and exhibits. For more information on the festival, to purchase festival passes and to register for classes and workshops, visit www.telluridephotofestival.com

Azure blue skies, aspen with perfect posture and mountain peaks that rival the Swiss Alps are just some of the reasons to visit Telluride. There are no traffic lights (the nearest one is 45 miles away) and no chain restaurants or shops in the town. “That’s why you don’t see any trash,” said Dave Rote, local historian and owner-operator of Dave’s Mountain Tours. “You show me a place that serves fast food and I’ll show you a mountain of trash.”

Telluride also has a 25-mile-an-hour speed limit. Kick it up to 28 or 29 mph and you will get a severe reprimand from one of the locals.

Dave will take you on some incredible tours of mining camps and ghost towns, riding through arches and winding your way up to the summit of Imogene Pass at 13,000 feet or Ophir Pass at 12,789 feet. The views are stunning and the history of the area is fascinating. To learn more about the tours, go to www.telluridetours.com.

At the east end of Telluride, Bridal Veil Falls is Colorado’s tallest free-falling waterfall at 365 feet.

Flying into Telluride is an E ride (old Disneyland fans will remember E ticket rides). The Telluride Regional Airport is the highest commercial airport in North America at 9,078 feet. Hold your breath coming in; hold your breath going out.

Telluride is hard to get to, but even harder to leave.

(All information is accurate at the time of publication but prices, dates and other details are all subject to change. Confirm all information before making any travel arrangements.)

(For more information and lodging, go to www.VisitTelluride.com.)