A taste of foliage

A taste of early foliage in Southington, CT. The best foliage I saw today was the trees in the Costco parking lot. I’m off to explore the Litchfield Hills and the Southern Berkshires the next two days. My first hidden gem is Route 364 in Southington/Berlin. No traffic and woods hugging both sides of the road.

Case of the missing duffle

Arrived in Connecticut this afternoon minus one duffle. Leaves are starting to change color. We saw some patches of red and orange mixed in with the green. The duffle that’s missing is the one with our PJs. I haven’t slept in jeans in years. Hopefully, Southwest will deliver in the morning.

Mexico Tourism

FITA

The Third annual International Tourism Fair of the Americas (FITA) wound up yesterday. The Mexico City government, which organized the event, declared it was an outstanding success that attracted some 3,500 potential buyers of travel services. Among these were 500 from abroad. In all, more than 15,000 people reportedly attended the fair. Journalistic colleagues who actually were there say this may have been an exaggeration. Unlike the Tianguis Turistico, held in the spring to promote destinations in Mexico, FITA aims to be more international. The event was held at the Bancomer Centro in the new, flourishing Santa Fe district, which is difficult to reach from other parts of the capital.

Tourism Ministry lambasted

Two former tourism ministers — Silvia Hernández and Oscar Espinoza, along with Pablo Azcárraga, president of the Tourism Business Council and a leading hotelier — all criticized the performance of the Tourism Ministry, whose leaders will be replaced when a new administration takes over in December. The current ministry, they declared, has done a poor job promoting Mexico. It has covered its flaws with inflated statistics. The three spoke at a forum during the International Tourism Fair of the Americas held this weekend in Mexico City.

Cervantes Festival

A week from today, the 40^th annual Cervantes Festival starts in Guanajuato, continuing through Oct. 21. The festival attracts artists of all types (performing, etc.) from around the world. Guanajuato, a picturesque provincial capital, appears to some to have been invented by Cervantes (he of Don Quixote fame).

Dragon port

Concern is being expressed by some over a Chinese proposal to build a $200 million facility for container ships near Puerto Morelos, just beyond Cancun and currently gateway to the Riviera Maya. It would be expected to handle about 50,000 containers annually and include warehouses and housing units. State officials insist that there would be no environmental damage and that the project would benefit Quintana Roo, now almost entirely dependent on tourism.

Governors suggest…

The Conference of Governors delivered several proposals to Enrique Peña Nieto, who takes over as President Dec. 1. Among other things they urged that reciprocal agreements for international pre-clearance at some airports be initiated, along with increased air and land access to the country, better training for customs and immigration officials and eliminating visa requirements for citizens of as many countries as possible. As these suggestions were being made, the Tourism Ministry announced that hotel occupancy rates have increased by 8 percent during the first three quarters of the year, meaning that they reached a record high.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

Posting Alert!

I will be in New England for 16 days, Sept. 29 through Oct. 14, searching for the hidden gems of leaf peeping. I will be in search of the places to see great foliage without the crowds and I will post information and photographs daily starting Monday, Oct. 1. I also will make suggestions as to where to stay. If I find a great restaurant, I will post it.

— Stan Wawer

Royal Gorge Bridge & Park: From longterm memory to bucket list

Royal Gorge Bridge spans the Arkansas River.

The Royal Rush Skycoaster.

The Soaring Eagle Zipline.

Story & Photos By Stan Wawer

Royal Gorge Bridge is not on my A bucket list. However, it has been filed away in the longterm memory portion of my brain as a must see. It no longer is a must see. It’s now a must go back.

After visiting this engineering marvel with my family — wife, daughter and two granddaughters — I find it hard to believe, I never had it on my bucket list.

Royal Gorge Bridge is in Cañon City, Colorado, about two and a half hours from Denver. It was built in five months in 1929 without a death or serious injury. It is 976 feet (our trolley driver said 1,200 feet) above the Arkansas River and spans 1,270 feet. It was built at a cost of $300,000 (about $18 million today).  

Today, it is more than a suspension bridge; it is Royal Gorge Bridge and Park. Two of its ride are as adrenaline pumping as any found in our country’s great amusement parks.

“I’m a coaster freak,” said a man in his early 60s as he was being harnessed up for a ride on the Royal Rush Skycoaster.

OK, thrill seekers; this ride is the ultimate adrenaline rush. The skycoaster takes you up 100 feet and then lets you fly through the air with the greatest of ease. It is 1,300 feet above the river and reaches speeds up to 50 mph that take you over the gorge. The scariest part is the winching that takes you to that 100-foot tower and then the release that fires you out over the gorge like a slingshot.

I opted for the Soaring Eagle Zipline, another adrenaline-seeking experience. The zipline is 700 feet long, 1,122 feet above the Arkansas River and goes at a speed of 30 mph. The only thing holding you into the seat is a seatbelt tightened around your waist. You go backward and then forward and you do it twice. My 6-year-old granddaughter went on it twice and had her hands up in the air. Kids!

With two riders secured side-by-side, the zipline is family friendly, reads the description on the brochure.

“We started construction in March and opened in May,” said Troy, the ride’s operator and one of the builders. “We had more than 500 flyers on Labor Day. It was interesting that he used the term “flyers.”

The oldest rider to date is 87 and the youngest was a big 2-year-old boy.

“We have made over $300,000 since May,” Troy said. “We hope to recoup our construction costs by next summer.”

The Incline Railway, one of the world’s steepest incline railways, takes you down 1,550 feet at a 100 percent grade and 45-degree angle. It descends at a speed of 3 mph and the travel time is five and a half minutes each way.

Other activities include trail rides (must be 6 years or older to ride), Wapiti Western Wildlife Park, antique replica carousel (I went on with my granddaughters and it is the fastest carousel I’ve ever been on and there are no straps holding you on), aerial tram, Plaza Theatre, burro rides, Silver Rock Railroad and Mountain Man Trading Post.

The aerial tram is one of the world’s longest single-span aerial tram and 2,200 feet and 1,178 feet above the Arkansas River. It was built in 1968 at a cost of $350,000.

The park opens at 10 a.m. and closes at different times, depending on the time of the year. During October it is open until 4 p.m. Admission is $26 for adults, $20 for children and $22 for seniors. Children under 4 years of age are free. There are coupon and other special pricing offers. 

Mexicogram

Mexicogram can now be seen only on my web page, www.jimmbudd.com. My apologies for the inconvenience, but, hey, all it takes is a couple of extra clicks. And as a bonus, on my web page you can see the ramblings of a grumpy geezer at “Blog,” my memoir “How Did I Get Here” (like the Adventures of Augie March” but fact, not fiction), “Jimm Budd’s ¡ MEXICO !” (the best collection of  travel columns about Mexico on the web) and also my weekly column, “Traveling Light,” written for Mexican newspapers but seen here in English. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. I need all the help I can get.

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Jimm Budd
Reporting From Mexico City
Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

Yellowstone announces winter lodging, learning packages

Yellowstone National Park Lodges, operated by Xanterra Parks & Resorts, the manager of lodging, restaurants and activities in Yellowstone National Park, and the Yellowstone Association Institute will offer five “Lodging & Learning” packages this winter in Yellowstone.

The park’s winter season begins Dec. 18 with the opening of Old Faithful Snow Lodge. Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel opens Dec. 20. The lodges provide the only wintertime accommodations within the park. Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel will close for the season March 4 and Old Faithful Snow Lodge will close March 3.

“Since we introduced these packages in 1999, close to 15,000 participants have made a winter or summer Lodging & Learning package their preferred way to enjoy Yellowstone,” said Rick Hoeninghausen, director of sales and marketing for Xanterra in Yellowstone. “Our wildlife viewing, cross-country skiing and geology all stand alone as world-class, but combined they create an unparalleled experience.”

The popular multi-day vacations are collaborations between Xanterra and the non-profit Yellowstone Association Institute. Each program includes accommodations, some meals and Xanterra’s “Snow Card” good for 10 percent off meals, in-park transportation, tours, ski shop services and most retail items. Some Lodging & Learning package components vary based on location. Rates quoted here are per person, double occupancy, plus tax and utility fee. Rates vary based on location, room type, number of people and applicable tax rates. Yellowstone Association members pay $10 less than the quoted rate.

The “Old Faithful Winter Expedition” features two nights at Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and two nights at Old Faithful Snow Lodge. Under the guidance of an Institute instructor, stops throughout the park include the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, Yellowstone Lake and various geyser basins. Available on Dec. 20 and 26 and Jan. 2, 9, 16, 20, 23, 30 and Feb. 6, 13, 17, 20, 24, 27, rates start at $1,075 per person for double occupancy and $1,325 for single occupancy.

The “Winter Wildlife Expedition” allows participants to observe and learn about bison, elk, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, coyotes, wolves and other wildlife. Available on Dec. 30, Jan. 13 and 27 and Feb. 10, 24 and 26, this program features four nights of lodging at Mammoth Hotel. Rates start at $665 per person for double occupancy and $849 for single occupancy.

“Yellowstone on Skis” features five days of cross-country skiing with daily trips to the Blacktail Plateau, Lamar Valley, Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon and the foot of the Gallatin Range. The program is led by a naturalist/guide from the YAI, and a professional cross-country skiing instructor will accompany the group on two days to help participants improve their skills. Offered on Jan. 12 and 26, Feb. 9 and 23, 2013, the package includes three nights of lodging at Mammoth Hotel and three nights of lodging at Snow Lodge. Rates start at $1,619 per person for double occupancy and $1,995 for single occupancy. Ski rentals are available but not included in any of the packages.

The “Winter Wolf Discovery” is offered on Dec. 23 and Jan. 6, 20 and Feb. 3, 12, 17. Instructors provide expertise on the reintroduction of wolves to the park and lead wildlife viewing excursions through the Lamar Valley. This four-night package includes accommodations at Mammoth Hotel. Rates start at $705 per person for double occupancy and $889 for single occupancy.

“Winter in Wonderland” is designed as a comprehensive introduction to Yellowstone in winter. Guests receive four nights of lodging at Mammoth Hotel and two nights at Old Faithful Snow Lodge. Guests explore the park via snowcoach, skis and snowshoes and learn about wildlife in the Lamar Valley, geology in the Old Faithful region and more. This program runs Monday through Sunday, Dec. 24, through Feb. 25. Rates start at $1,385 per person for double occupancy and $1,729 for single occupancy.

Xanterra also offers a variety of self-guided winter “Getaway Packages” and a guided snowmobile “Adventure Package” as well as lodging and transportation options for those who want to explore the park on their own.

Except for the road from Gardiner, Mont. to Cooke City, Mont. via Mammoth Hot Springs, transportation within the park is limited to snowmobiles and enclosed heated snowcoaches during the winter. Snowcoach transportation is available daily to a variety of park locations. Xanterra also offers a wide range of half- and full-day snowcoach, ski and snowshoe tours and ski and snowshoe rentals as well as expert instruction and other services. 

Lodging & Learning programs can be booked by calling (307) 344-7311 or toll-free (866) GEYSERLAND (866-439-7375) or by submitting the secure online package reservation request form found on the website. Yellowstone Association members receive a $10 discount on all courses and family memberships begin at just $35 per year.

Complete details about “Lodging & Learning” packages as well as winter “Getaway” and “Adventure” packages, accommodations, restaurants and activities in Yellowstone can be found by calling (307) 344-7311 or toll-free 866-GEYSERLAND (866-439-7375), or visiting the website at www.YellowstoneNationalParkLodges.com.

California Fall Color Report

Each Thursday afternoon until Thanksgiving Day, CaliforniaFallColor.com will issue a report to California travel, outdoor and weather media.

As background, it uses a scale created by The Weather Channel, to provide consistent evaluation of the percent of change for a given area.  Reporters are volunteer “color spotters” who call or e-mail their reports.  CaliforniaFallColor also does its own reporting, though depend on color spotters for the most comprehensive coverage.

Summary Report: The most colorful displays of fall color (red, orange, yellow, gold, lime, dark green) will occur in the Bishop Creek Canyon (west of Bishop) toward South, North and Sabrina Lakes, this weekend. Though, pockets of fluttering yellow and lime can be seen in stands of aspen above 9,000 feet throughout the Eastern Sierra.

Timeshares sales up

By the end of 2012, timeshare sales will show an increase of between 8 and 10 percent over last year, according to Juan Ignacio Rodriguez, RCI’s vp for business development in Mexico. He predicted that total sales will be $3.4 billion. Mexican and Brazilian buyers account for most of the growth in this area.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

‘New’ Indianapolis big surprise

Canoes line the shore of the Sugar Creek River.

      Bobby Plump on the

      patio of his restaurant. 

   

Story & Photos By Stan Wawer

The Indianapolis I remember had only one allure — the Indianapolis 500 at the “Old Brickyard.” My, my, how things have changed in 40 years. Redevelopment has worked miracles on this city that sits just about smack-dab in the middle of Indiana.

The “new” Indy is an under-explored destination that’s home to the world’s largest children’s museum, hidden cultural enclaves, more than 200 restaurants and 50 unique attractions. Mix it all together with a cleanliness that squeaks and uncommon friendliness and you have one of this country’s biggest surprise packages.

“With more than $3 billion in new tourism-related infrastructure and hospitality improvements recently completed, Indianapolis is truly a city on the move,” said Mayor Greg Ballard. “The new eight-mile, bike- and pedestrian-friendly Cultural Trail that connects hotels, attractions and cultural districts has garnered international attention as a model for urban revitalization.”

Make no mistake, however, Indianapolis is a sports town. The Indianapolis 500 auto race is the largest single-day sporting event in the world. In the heart of downtown, Lucas Oil Stadium houses the NFL Colts and Bankers Life Fieldhouse is home to the NBA’s Indiana Pacers and the WNBA’s Indiana Fever. I learned firsthand that there are no bad seats in Bankers Life Fieldhouse — unlike LA’s Staples Center.

Lucas Oil Stadium hosted the 2012 Super Bowl. Super Bowl Village had 1,105,000 visitors over 10 days during Super Bowl XLVI. The Super Bowl has come a long way from the first one I covered in 1967 as a young sportswriter. The Green Bay Packers won it over the Kansas City Chiefs in the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum.

You might be interested in knowing that Indianapolis devotes more acreage to honoring veterans than any other city and is second only to Washington, D.C. in number of monuments and memorials.

Butler University is just a short drive from downtown. The university’s 2009-10 and 2010-11 basketball teams went to the NCAA Final Four, losing the championship game to Duke, 61-59, in 2010 in Lucas Oil Stadium and losing to eventual champion Connecticut in 2011. Remember, this is Indiana where basketball reigns supreme.

Bobby Plump’s Last Shot is no more than a long shot from Butler.  You may not recognize the name, but in a 1996 Indiana survey, Bobby Plump was the fifth most-recognized name in the state, trailing then Gov. Evan Bayh, Indiana coach Bobby Knight, Purdue coach Gene Keady and the Indianapolis Motor Speedway’s Tony Hulman George.

                          Bobby Plump was the man who inspired the 1986 film “Hoosiers,” which garnered two Oscar nominations — one for Dennis Hopper as Best Supporting Actor. The final scenes were filmed at Butler University’s Hinkle Fieldhouse — the site of the famous 1954 Indiana high school state championship game.

Bobby Plump was the Milan High School player who actually hit the last shot with three seconds remaining against a much larger and powerful Muncie in the days when there was only one division. Plump’s stardom did not end with that shot, he went on to star at Butler University and is a member of the university’s Hall of Fame.

Bobby’s restaurant-bar is at 6104 Cornell St. in Indianapolis. He’s there most days and always ready to chat. The walls are filled with memorabilia, including a framed copy of the story Milan’s giant-killer victory and Bobby’s famous shot.

“We’ve had a reunion every year since 1955,” Plump said as we sat on the patio of his restaurant. “Nine of the 10 players on that team went on to college, six ended up coaching.

                          “Nothing was factual in the movie with the exception of the last 18 seconds of the championship game,” he continued. “Our coach, Marvin Wood, was 26, [Gene] Hackman was much older and controversial. Our coach was not controversial. But I loved the movie. I thought it was great.”

Within an hour or two from Indianapolis are a number of excellent state parks. The state also has 63 wineries. I spent a day touring Turkey Run and Shades state parks in western Indiana, including a canoe trip down the Sugar Creek River, passing under covered bridges and a suspension bridge.

                          I was not prepared for the 100-foot cliffs and primeval forests in the two parks after driving through miles and miles of drought-riddled cornfields.

 If you want a thrill of a lifetime, take the Ultimate Indy 500 Experience. For $499, you     get three laps around the 2.5-mile oval in a two-seater at speeds pushing 180 to 185  mph. You must be at least 18 years of age, under 6‘5” in height and under 250 pounds.

                         Union Station is another must-see during your Indianapolis stay. Union Station was the first union station in the world, opening in September of 1853. The architectural style is Romanesque Revival, made of Indiana limestone and granite. Thomas Edison served as a telegraph operator here.

One thing is certain; today’s Indianapolis will surprise you.

                          Where to Stay

Indianapolis has a number of outstanding hotels. I stayed at the world’s largest JW Marriott. It is in the heart of downtown, with connections to the Convention Center and walking distance to top restaurants, Lucas Oil Stadium and Bankers Life Fieldhouse. Across the street in one direction is the phenomenal White River State Park and in another direction is Victory Field Baseball Park, home of the Indianapolis Indians, the Pittsburgh Pirates’ Triple-A affiliate. The Marriott is pricey but it has all the amenities and more. For reservations, go to jwindy.com or call (317) 860-5800.

                         Where to Eat

                         St. Elmo Steak House: The only thing I can say about this place is — “Terrific.” The specialty of the house is an unbelievably mouth-watering dry-aged 28-oz. Tomahawk rib eye. That’s right, I said 28 ounces. St. Elmo has been a landmark in downtown Indianapolis since 1902. It is the oldest Indianapolis steakhouse in its original location. It was a famous haunt of Peyton Manning when he was the Colts’ quarterback. The restaurant is at 127 S. Illinois St. For reservations, call (317) 635-0636. On the second floor is the 1933 Lounge, a tribute to the end of Prohibition.

All information is accurate at the time of publication but prices, dates and other details are all subject to change. Confirm all information before making any travel arrangements.

Mayaland

The Mexican Tourism Board will invest about $10 million internationally promoting travel to the Maya region this winter. Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche, Tabasco and Chiapas all should benefit. The Maya calendar, which began some 5,000 years ago, ends in December. This may not herald the end of the world, but some believe it marks the beginning of a new era. It was about 5,000 years ago that the prehistoric era ended and the first written records appeared.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

Mexico City promotes

During the past three months, the Mexico City tourism office has invested 23 million pesos (about $1.7 million) in public relations campaigns in New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Dallas and Miami, according to Carlos Mackinlay. As director of the office, Mackinlay announced that arrivals are up by 27 percent compared to last year. Mexico City leads the country in international arrivals, although many passengers stay only long enough to change planes.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

Fall comes to Colorado

The aspens are stunning in the late afternoon sunlight as fall comes early to Colorado’s Kenosha Pass, just east of Fairplay (South Park) on highway 285. I took these photos yesterday (Sept. 16) in late afternoon sunlight.

El Diezyseis

Technically, next Sunday is Independence Day, but the celebrations always start the night before when the President, governors, mayors and anyone else so inclined echoes the Grito, Father Miguel Hidalgo’s call to arms in 1810. Hidalgo gave his shout at dawn, but now 11 p.m. is the magic hour. It is reminiscent of New Year’s Eve. The military parades the next morning. Some of the biggest celebrations this year will take place in Las Vegas where two Mexican boxing champions are scheduled to defend their titles.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

Crocodiles in Cancun

Some 500 crocodiles are thought to be living in the lagoon that lies between the Cancun hotel zone (which is on a 12-mile-long sandbar) and the mainland. Occasionally dogs have vanished in the area and recently a local laborer lost an arm to one of the creatures. Authorities are planning to remove a dozen or so of the largest reptiles and send them to zoos.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

Awards for Mexico’s ads

Travel Weekly presented Mexico with five gold and one silver Magellan Awards for its print and electronic advertisements featuring the theme “The place you thought you knew.” According to a Tourism Ministry announcement, the awards won out over 550 entries. The promotions are credited in part with attracting 3.7 million American and another one million Canadians to Mexico.

Cruise ship business sinking

Only one cruise ship has put into Mazatlán this year, according to federal statistics. Arrivals in Los Cabos and Acapulco dropped 88 percent and overall the number of arrivals fell by nearly 25 percent. Worry about crime is given as the main reason, although costs also are said to be at fault. No mention was made of increased competition from other destinations.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

United quits Mazatlán, Toluca

Having purchased Continental, United Airlines is terminating Continental’s old routes from Houston to Toluca and Mazatlán. The carrier feels it can earn more elsewhere. The departure will hit Mazatlán hard. A Mexican airline may take over the Toluca route, more appealing now that Houston Hobby can now receive international flights. Carlos Hernández, who formerly headed Continental in Mexico, has moved over to Delta.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers

Lake Texcoco Eco Park

A 14,300 hectare ecological park is planned for the swamp lands east of Mexico City. Since a hectare is about the size of a city block, this will be one big development. What became Mexico City once was an island in vast Texcoco Lake. Following the Conquest, the lake was drained, replaced by a fetid quagmire. The new park, if it ever gets built, will include sports facilities, bicycle paths, museums and areas for the 153 species of migratory birds that still flock to the area.

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Jimm Budd

Reporting From Mexico City

Member of the Society of American Travel Writers