By Stan Wawer
A blinding rainstorm drenched 20 adventurous bike riders as they wound their way around the Schuylkill River on a 23-mile journey from Philadelphia to Valley Forge.
We were given the choice of quitting at the 12-mile mark and taking a van the final 11 miles or, like General Washington and his Continental Army, just keep on truckin’.
Nineteen of us decided that if Washington and his army could do it on foot in the dead of winter, we could do it on bikes in a driving rain. I was the first to head out on the final leg — soaked to the skin, muddied all-terrain shoes, shorts and useless rain jacket and nursing the onset of diaper rash. Before leaving, I threw down a piece of cheese, two pieces of dried apricot and a slice of prosciutto.
I eventually was passed by five members of our group — three from the mountains of Colorado, one from the Mile High City of Denver and one from Southern California who had just returned from a 480-mile mountainous bike ride in New Zealand. No fare.
We started the 23-mile ride outside the entrance of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the same Museum of Art where Rocky Balboa (Sylvester Stallone) finished his famous run and workout in the original “Rocky.” Would you believe 30 years ago? There has been a lot of Rockys (six to be exact) under the dam since then.
The Schuylkill River Trail extends from downtown Philadelphia to Oaks in Montgomery County. In Philadelphia, the trail uses the Fairmount Park trails and the Manayunk Canal Tow Path. The trail is paved except for the towpath. Future development of the Schuylkill River Trail will extend the trail along the entire length of the Schuylkill River for more than 100 miles, from its confluence with the Delaware River to its headwaters in Schuylkill County.
The bike trail traverses the bucolic countryside of the Schuylkill River Heritage Corridor, a five-county area designated as a State heritage Park, highlighting the rich industrial and cultural heritage of this region, offering bikers and hikers an idyllic view of this extraordinary river corridor.
The trail runs through a landscape that varies from parkland to urban and suburban neighborhoods.
The Schuylkill River Greenway Association manages the area. “We envision a Schuylkill River region fully revitalized and restored, a region whose citizens understand, value and are fully committed t preserving and sustaining their cultural heritage and natural environment for future generations,” according to an association spokesman.
This bike route is even more stunning in the fall. At this time of the year, Valley Forge National Historical Park becomes a 3,600-acre tapestry of gorgeous golds, reds and oranges. The stately statues of Gen. “Mad Anthony” Wayne and Baron Friedrich Von Steuben are framed against a blaze of yellow foliage. Washington’s austere gray stone headquarters is resplendent against a backdrop of red and gold leaves. Everywhere along the road, the trees are awash with autumn’s rich hues. It’s a much different canvas that the one Washington’s ragtag army faced in the winter of 1777.
“We’re pedaling history,” said Jeffrey Dolan, president of Philadelphia Bike and Moped Tours.
Washington’s troops moved from Whitemarsh to the west bank of the Schuylkill (pronounced school-kill) River at Valley Forge, a 13-mile march that was delayed and took eight days. The troops crossed the Schuylkill on a wobbly, makeshift bridge in an area called the Gulph. They were forced to bivouac at the Gulph for several days after a snowstorm and several days of icy rain made roads impassable. The undernourished troops finally marched into Valley Forge on Dec. 19, 1777.
Washington forged his Continental Army into a fighting force at Valley Forge in that winter of 1777-78. You can tour Washington’s headquarters, soldiers’ huts and Artillery Park. No battles were fought in Valley Forge, but about 2,000 soldiers died — more Americans than were killed at the battles of Brandywine and Germantown combined.
Today, Valley Forge National Historical Park is a lush expanse of rolling, haunting hillsides that bears witness to the sacrifice and endurance of the Continental Army.
Disease, not cold or starvation was the true scourge of the camp. The most common killers were influenza, typhus, typhoid and dysentery.
Perhaps the most important outcome of the encampment was the army’s maturation into a more professional force under the direction of a charismatic former Prussian army officer, Friedrich Wilhelm Baron von Steuben.
One member of our group said it for all of us as we sat under a tree eating lunch in a park a stone’s throw from Valley Forge. We were soaked, muddy and tired. “The rain be damned. I wouldn’t have missed this experience for anything.” It sounded like something George Washington might have said during that fateful winter of 1777-78. Only he would have changed rain to snow.
If you go
Southwest Airlines offers several low fare daily flights from Ontario or LAX to Philadelphia starting at 6:30 a.m. and 6:45 a.m., respectively. Check online at www.southwest.com or www.iflyswa.com. Southwest also has flights out of Bob Hope Airport in Burbank starting at 8:15 a.m.
Frontier Airlines has daily low fare roundtrip flights to Philadelphia from LAX starting at 6:30 a.m. Check online at www.frontierairlines.com.
Where to stay
There are a number of outstanding hotels and country inns in and around Philadelphia. The Doubletree Hotel, 237 S. Broad St., is in the heart of Philadelphia’s arts district along the Avenue of the Arts. It sits across from the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, the Academy of Music and Merriam and Wilma theaters. Reserve online at www.doubletree.com or call (800) 222-TREE.
To check out hotels, inns and bed & breakfasts, go to www.gophila.com, the official visitor site for Greater Philadelphia.
When you’re there
Philadelphia Bike Tour brings bicycles directly to area hotels. Bikers can pedal through town on their own or opt for a guided city or countryside tour. Snacks and water are provided by request. The cost is $36 for a half day, $57 for a full day; guided tour packages begin at $56 per person for ages 14 and up. Call (866) 667-3395 or go to www.philadelphiabiketour.com. The tours include new Fuji comfort bikes, helmets and bike training.
(All information is accurate at the time of publication but prices, dates and other details are all subject to change. Confirm all information before making any travel arrangements.)
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