Monday, December 19, 2011

New Zealand a Remarkable Country

“Lord of the Rings” scene shot on this Mt. Victoria spot.

Dogs herding sheep at Wharekauhau Lodge.

Peter Jackson’s Park Road Post Production in Wellington.


Wellington trolly bus.


Story & Photos By Stan Wawer


New Zealand is so far removed from that wild and crazy world in the Northern Hemisphere that it might be the main reason why its people are so darn friendly and happy. Going through airport security is remarkably uncomplicated. And, even more remarkable, New Zealanders refuse tips.

New Zealand is one of the last landmasses in the Southern Hemisphere north of Antarctica and the last discovered landmass on earth. That’s way down under. The country offers chains of stunning mountains, volcanoes, lakes, fiords, native forest and tidy beaches. Add to these award-winning vineyards and cuisine, a rapidly growing film industry and world-leading efforts in conservation and you have yourself a pretty neat place to visit.

The unique indigenous Maori culture is evident everywhere throughout New Zealand. The Dutch in 1642 were the first Europeans to check out the land of the Kiwi. But it was James Cook, a Brit Royal Navy officer, who rediscovered New Zealand 120 years later. The European hordes followed.

The British and Maori people signed a treaty in 1840 in the Bay of Islands, which established British law in New Zealand, while guaranteeing Maori authority over their land and culture.

New Zealand, population 4.3 million, has a vibrant economy with dairy, meat, engineering, wine and the film industry leading the way. The country has 60 million sheep, almost 15 for every NZ citizen. It’s no wonder New Zealand has become known for producing premium outdoor clothing, especially high-quality Merino wool. Merinos are regarded as having some of the finest and softest wool of any sheep.

Surprisingly, New Zealand is expensive. Even with the advantage of the US dollar (about NZ1 to US82 cents), everything in New Zealand appears overpriced. It is now summer in New Zealand, but when my wife and I visited in November it was the end of spring and sales items were higher than regular prices in California for similar merchandise.

We spent six days in and around Wellington, known as “the coolest little capital in the world.” Wedged between steep hills, the rippling waters of Wellington Harbor and the tempestuous seas of Cook Strait, Wellington is, with a population of about 180,000, the southern-most city on New Zealand’s North Island. Auckland, its largest city, is at the north-end of the North Island. Christchurch is the main hub for the South Island. Wellington as the nation’s capital is the seat of government and also has a lively art scene.

Peter Jackson has brought a new fame to Wellington and New Zealand with his Oscar-winning “Lord of the Rings” trilogy. The city has become known as “Wellywood,” which created a great controversy. There was a movement to place a Wellywood sign (ala the Hollywood sign) on the side of a hill overlooking the bay. It went to a vote in late November and was overwhelmingly defeated.

I took a tour of Middle Earth filming locations on Mt. Victoria only a short distance from central Wellington. A “Lord of the Rings” expert, who shared behind-the-scenes insights, hosted the tour. Phillip played six different character roles in the film. Highlights of the tour include the outskirts of the Shire, the Gardens of Isengard, River Anduin, Helm’s Deep and Minas Tirith. We strolled where the hobbits raced to the ferry and hid from the Nazgul, through the elf kingdom of Rivendell and alongside the Fords of Isen. Jackson is filming “The Hobbit,” which is scheduled for a 2012 release.

The tour also included a visit to Jackson’s post production studio (not included on the regular tour). Park Road Post Production is a California-style Craftsman building where we viewed the trailer for “TinTin,” which was released in December. It was directed by Steven Spielberg and produced by Jackson.

A Maori heritage tour immersed us into Aoteroa’s (New Zealand’s) unique culture. We were greeted at the Waiwhetu, Lower Hutt City, cultural center by touching noses. The tour included demonstrations of Maori arts and crafts, an opportunity to create something special for ourselves and to view work from Leading Maori artists.

When visiting Wellington, do not leave town without riding the cable car — it’s iconic, it takes a great picture and there are great views at the top. Peruse the views from the top of Mount Victoria — it’s gorgeous up there. Sample the three C’s: coffee, cocktails and cuisine. Taste the wines — especially Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.

It’s a long way to Tipperary and even longer to New Zealand, but it should be high on your travel list. The country will leave a lasting impression, especially the people.

If You Go

Air New Zealand flies non-stop to Auckland twice daily from LAX. It is a 12-to-13-hour flight and crosses the international dateline. Air New Zealand partners with United Airlines.

Where to Stay

InterContinental Wellington: Only internationally branded 5 Star hotel in Wellington. Adjacent to the waterfront. Walking distance to a number of attractions. Excellent rooms, fitness center, spa, business center. Fee for wireless connection. www.intercontinental.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/wellington.

Museum Art Hotel Wellington: A 165-room luxury hotel in the center of Wellington opposite New Zealand’s national museum, Te Papa. Fitness center, sauna, indoor heated pool, spa pool and day spa. The hotel boasts a total of 66 original artworks from 55, mainly local, artists. www.museumhotelart.co.nz/

Amora Hotel Wellington: Overlooks the harbor and just across the road from the Wellington Convention Centre and a two-minute walk to Te Papa. www.wellington.amorahotels.com.

All information is accurate at the time of publication but prices, dates and other details are all subject to change. Confirm all information before making any travel arrangements.

1 comment:

Emilie M said...

We read with much interest your commentary on New Zealand, which appeared in the LaVerne Community News. We spent two weeks in October making a driving tour of both North and South Islands. We absolutely loved everything we saw. Our stay was extra special because the Rugby World Cup matches were taking place; we watched the finals between New Zealand and France with locals in a Picton pub! You can imagine the celebration that resulted when the Kiwi's beat France by one point. We agree with your statement that New Zealand is expensive. Compared to US prices there were no bargains and we felt that meal prices were high. We mostly stayed in B&B's which helped us to meet more locals than might occurred had we stayed in hotels. New Zealand did not disappoint this couple...we would return in a heartbeat!