Today, New Caledonia is the place less traveled by Americans. That’s because Americans have little knowledge of this remote archipelago in the Coral Sea with its pellucid waters, white-sand beaches, rain forests and tropical temperatures.
New Caledonia, a French Territory and former penal colony, is the world’s second largest nickel producer and a diver’s nirvana. In 2008, The Caledonian lagoon, the world’s largest, was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A 25-minute twin-engine plane ride takes you to Isle of Pines where you can snorkel, dive, swim, kayak or chill beneath the swaying palms.
The archipelago is Vanuatu, Fiji and Tahiti (French Polynesia) before mass tourism. Nouméa, the capital, is on a peninsula in the main island’s south region and a haven for kite and wind surfers. It is home to the majority of the island’s European, Melanesian, Indonesian and Vietnamese populations. Thirty percent of the island is tribal land, which no one can purchase.
“New Caledonia came into the 20th century after World War II,” said Francois Tran, our guide (Caledonia Tours) and an encyclopedia of New Caledonia knowledge. He is a botanist, archeologist, geologist and historian rolled into one. “Many of the bridges were built by Americans during the war.”
The US had more than a million troops pass through New Caledonia over the duration of the war, with Nouméa serving as US military headquarters in the South Pacific. “Charles De Gaulle let the US use it as a base but told them they must leave after the war,” Tran said.
For those of you who have no clue, New Caledonia is east of Brisbane, Australia, northwest of New Zealand and southeast of Fiji and Tahiti in the South Pacific.
The unemployment rate is 2 percent. “If you want a job you can get one in New Caledonia,” Francois said. “Need a job? Come to New Caledonia.”
On my first day in New Caledonia, I got lost in the rain forest. I was on a Francois guided tour with a small group when I wandered off on my own to take pictures. I had a map but I left it back in my backpack along with my water. I followed a trail on my way back thinking it was a shortcut. I got to a trail head with a sign pointing left and right. I went left. If I had gone right, I would have been about 50 yards from camp. I kept taking different trails trying to find the high ground so that I could see the camp — a rain forest impossibility. I got farther and farther away from camp and where we originally hiked. After about an hour they sent out a search party, including the other six members of our group who turned out to be very concerned about my being missing in action.
I walked down treacherous trails and back up again. In all, I probably walked about 12 miles. It was very hot and humid. I was sweating like a stuffed pig and dehydrated but with no sense of urgency except that I was holding everyone up for a trip to lunch (which we never did make). I called out a few times but I was too far away from the search team. I finally decided to retrace my steps. After about three more miles, I came to an open space where a jeep was parked and a rescue team member sitting in the driver’s seat. The word went out that I was found and I was raced along a winding, treacherous path at about 40 mph.
None of the group was upset with me. They were all concerned and happy to see me. It took a little more than two hours to find me. I apologized for the missed lunch.
I went to another rain forest in River Blue Provincial Park in search of the elusive cagou, the national bird of New Caledonia and the fifth most rare bird in the world. I found not one, but two cagou. They are flightless and not at all shy. I was able to get within a few feet of the bird for a marvelous photo shoot.
River Blue Park also is home to the haunting Drowned Forest, leafless imprisoned trees in Yaté Lake, created when the Yaté River was dammed more than 50 years ago.
Francois cooked us a lunch of venison steaks, venison sausage, a veggie salad and bread. On our way out of the park, we observed a giant Kauri pine; its age estimated at 1,000 years. It is a little more than 131 feet height, with a diameter of nearly 9 feet.
Our overnight stay at Le Meridien on Isle of Pines afforded the group an opportunity to see and snorkel some of the most ridiculously beautiful beaches in the world. We took a 40-minute hike to a natural lake, sloshing through bush, mud and water to snorkel in chilled but beautiful water.
On our second day on Isle of Pines, we chartered a boat that churned and bumped over emerald and Tidy-Bowl-blue water to the white-sanded Nokanhui Atoll, which sits in the middle of nowhere in the Coral Sea. The charter, which included snorkeling and a lunch of spiny lobster and fish, could cost between 10,000 and 20,000 Pacific francs.
Cruise ships and tankers make their way into Nauméa’s harbor. Charters of all kinds also use the harbor as home base. While in the city, you can get a taste of French wines and chocolates made by chocolatier extraordinaire Patrick Morand at Chocolate Morand.
What is best in New Caledonia is its deserted beaches of fine white sand, coral, lagoons, clear waters and solitude found nowhere else in the South Pacific.
If You Go
There are no direct flights from LAX to New Caledonia. You have to fly to Sidney, Australia or Auckland New Zealand. Air New Zealand has daily flights that leave in the evening to Auckland and then a two-and-a-half-hour flight to New Caledonia. Air New Zealand partners with United Airlines and Aircalin
Where to Stay
Hotel Royal Tera opened in December of 2010. Apartment-style hotel on the beach. On Anse Vata Bay next to Le Meridien. It was once a Club Med. 108 rooms, all with balcony. Spa, beautiful pool, free Internet. E-mail: resa.royal@tera.nc or call +687 25 78 80. (www.starwoodhotels.com). Walk to downtown.
Le Meridien: Point Magnin. Phone: (687) 265000. Complimentary wireless high-speed Internet access. Business center. Large outdoor pool, scuba diving, health center, sailing, wind surfing. Walk to downtown.
Le Meridien (Isle of Pines): Reservations (687) 265000. Website: www.starwoodhotels.com. Beautiful infinity pool that looks out to a lagoon with white-sand beach. Comfortable bungalows. Nestled on Oro Bay, a natural lagoon protected by a colorful coral reef. No in-room Internet access. Fee for lobby Internet. A great honeymoon getaway. Flight from Nouméa’s Magenta Airport takes about 20-25 minutes.
Need to Know
The Pacific franc is about 100 to $1. Bring sunscreen and bug spray.
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