Name change for Niagara-on-the-Lake?

Story & Photos By Stan Wawer

Niagara-on-the-Lake should be called Ice Cream Town. Everyone is eating ice cream, finishing an ice cream cone or buying an ice cream cone. On this August afternoon, my wife and I felt like everyone was staring at us because we didn’t have a cone. On one side of the street, it appears as though every other establishment serves ice cream. One scoop runs from $2.85 to $3.25 Canadian.

Niagara-on-the-Lake, about 20 minutes from Niagara Falls on the Canadian side, is a National Historic Site steeped in history. It is a quaint, bucolic, magical town lined with mansions with a view to Niagara River and Lake Ontario. The area around Niagara-on-the-Lake is sprinkled with about 85 vineyards that are producing some of Canada’s finest wines.

Here you can take a horse-drawn carriage ride ($45 for 15 minutes; $70 for a half hour), tour a winery, explore its forts, colorful gardens and parks and potpourri of arts and crafts.

Loyalists who fled the U.S. during the American Revolution incorporated Niagara-on-the-Lake in 1781 as the town of Newark. In 1792, the newly renamed Niagara-on-the-Lake was the capital of Upper Canada, but lost that distinction to York (now Toronto) because of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s proximity to the U.S., which was considered a vulnerable position at that time.

During the War of 1812, Niagara-on-the-Lake was destroyed. It was rebuilt and became a commercial center, owed mostly to a vibrant shipping industry.

Niagara-on-the-Lake’s picturesque main street is a testament to the beauty of 19^th century architecture. A landmark on this street is the clock tower monument, erected as a memorial to 10 of the town’s men who lost their lives in World War I. In 1996, Communities in Bloom named the city with the only Lord Mayor in Canada the Prettiest Town in Canada.

The town is home or in close proximity to many of the Niagara region’s most popular attractions, including the famous falls. My parents honeymooned at Niagara Falls 75 years ago. It was a far different place then, but it still is one of the world’s most popular honeymoon destinations. Today, a row of casinos and hotels rise high above the falls on the Canadian side overlooking Horseshoe Falls.

The natural wonder can be observed from Queen Victoria Park’s gardens and platforms as well as underground observation rooms. Skylon Tower offers the highest overhead view of the falls. My wife and I explored the roar aboard the Maid of the Mist, which cruises to the base of the American Falls, then to the basin of the commanding Horseshoe Falls. It gives a new meaning to “Raindrops are falling on my head.” The experience is exhilarating as you confront millions of gallons of water crashing like thunder into the nearby rocks. Prices for Maid of the Mist are $13.50 for adults, $7.85 for children 6 to 12 and no charge for 5 and under.

Less than 10 percent of the water flows over the American Falls. The average depth of water below the falls is 170 feet, which is as deep as the Niagara Gorge banks are high. The water from the falls travels down the Niagara River to Lake Ontario, then on to the St. Lawrence Seaway before reaching its final destination — the Atlantic Ocean.

Niagara-on-the-Lake shops of the picturesque Heritage District are in well-preserved buildings dating back to 1817. The grand boulevard of Queen Street anchors the shopping area, lined in summertime with beautiful floral plantings. This area also is home to historic sites and the three theaters that house the Shaw Festival, which has 10 different plays running from April 1 through Nov. 2. The Shaw Festival brings to the stage plays by Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries (1856-1950).

Peller Estates, Winery of the Year in 2006, calls Niagara-on-the-Lake home. Hungarian Andrew Peller founded the winery in 1961. He opened his first winery in British Columbia. Peller brought his son Joseph into the business. Grandson John now owns the winery. Andrew Peller died in 1990. Peller produces some excellent white wines (its 2002 chardonnay is considered among the top 100 in the world), but the winery does not ship outside Canada. Peller Estates’ four-diamond restaurant was voted No. 1 in Canada.

I would return to Niagara-on-the-Lake in a heartbeat. It reminds me of a bygone era without computers, cell phones, iPods and the Internet. It reminds me of a time when we stopped and smelled the roses.

If You Go

Airport access to Niagara-on-the-Lake is available through Toronto International Airport (75 miles north) and Buffalo Airport (50 miles southeast).

Where to Stay

There are a number of excellent hotels, country inns and bed & breakfast homes in Niagara-on-the-Lake. My wife and I stayed at the four-diamond Prince of Wales. Built in 1864 in the heart of historic Niagara-on-the-Lake. It was renamed Prince of Wales in honor of a royal visit in 1901 when the future George V and Queen Mary were guests.

This is a warm and charming hotel, with each room a unique and intimate hideaway. Each of the 110 guestrooms is individually designed and furnished in the authentic style of the Victorian era. The hotel also has a salt-water pool, fitness center, spa and Escabéche — the hotel’s flagship restaurant. Churchill Lounge is less formal, but with a ton of ambience. Pet-friendly rooms are available. For reservations, call (905) 468-3246 or toll free at (888) 669-5566. Or you can go to Vintage Hotels’ Website at www.vintage-hotels.com.