Photos By STAN WAWER
Alberta Falls.
Bull elk waiting for the rut.
Sprague Lake.
Friday, September 26, 2014
Larendi Cave a Surreal Scene
Story & Photos By Stan Wawer
I probably should have read a little more about my Larendi Cave tour outside of Reykjavik, Iceland. I didn’t have to sign a waiver, which led me to believe I was entering New Mexico’s Carlsbad Caverns — well-lighted paths, giant chambers, giant stalactites and stalagmites.
Larendi Cave is only a half-hour drive from Reykjavik but it might as well be 100 miles. It’s a drive through spectacular lava fields and passed a fish-head drying “farm.” “We sell the heads of fish to Nigeria,” said Bjorn Hroarsson, our guide, speologist and travel writer. “They use the heads to make soup.” Who knew?
We reached the entrance to Larendi Cave after about a 200-yard hike through a lava field. To say it was a hole in the ground would be an understatement. With my helmet in place and flashlight in hand I carefully climbed down lava rock to the cave’s main entrance. The rain and fog made for a surreal scene.
I’m alive today to tell you that if I did not have a helmet upon my head I would not have a head, as I know it. The tiny stalactites I hit more times than I can count would have surgically exposed my brain.
If you have back or knee problems forget Larendi Cave. If you are taller than 5-4, you will spend the major portion of the hike hunched over, crawling or rolling along. Prior to entering Larendi, I called it stand-up spelunking. I now call it crouching and crawling spelunking.
“Have you ever had an obese person try the cave tour?” someone asked. “I once had a lady from the states,” he explained. “Her a.. was bigger than the cave entrance.”
There is nothing easy about this experience; you make your way over lava rock and through narrow passageways. There is no smooth path to discovery. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat, but the next time, I will wear a helmet under my helmet. There might not be a whole lot up there in my brain but it’s the only one that I have and I would like to keep it.
Larendi Cave is only a half-hour drive from Reykjavik but it might as well be 100 miles. It’s a drive through spectacular lava fields and passed a fish-head drying “farm.” “We sell the heads of fish to Nigeria,” said Bjorn Hroarsson, our guide, speologist and travel writer. “They use the heads to make soup.” Who knew?
We reached the entrance to Larendi Cave after about a 200-yard hike through a lava field. To say it was a hole in the ground would be an understatement. With my helmet in place and flashlight in hand I carefully climbed down lava rock to the cave’s main entrance. The rain and fog made for a surreal scene.
I’m alive today to tell you that if I did not have a helmet upon my head I would not have a head, as I know it. The tiny stalactites I hit more times than I can count would have surgically exposed my brain.
If you have back or knee problems forget Larendi Cave. If you are taller than 5-4, you will spend the major portion of the hike hunched over, crawling or rolling along. Prior to entering Larendi, I called it stand-up spelunking. I now call it crouching and crawling spelunking.
“Have you ever had an obese person try the cave tour?” someone asked. “I once had a lady from the states,” he explained. “Her a.. was bigger than the cave entrance.”
There is nothing easy about this experience; you make your way over lava rock and through narrow passageways. There is no smooth path to discovery. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat, but the next time, I will wear a helmet under my helmet. There might not be a whole lot up there in my brain but it’s the only one that I have and I would like to keep it.
Thrill of the Ice
It was the crampons, with the front spikes, on the ice. Professor Plum had nothing to do with this one. Only a couple of quick reflective actions kept me from a possible broken nose and a concussion.
At the end of a one-and-a-half-hour hike on the Solheimajokull glacier on the south coast of Iceland, I looked around for a final view of this magnificent ice walking adventure. It was then that I caught my front spikes and headed downward, my life flashing before my eyes.
I threw my ice pick to the left; with my right hand, I swung my camera hanging around my neck to the right and turned my upper body just enough left to protect the only face that belongs to me. My left hand and my left ear connected with solid ice. Ouch! I was back on my feet before I had to take a standing eight count. Both my ear and left hand were cut. I did not know the left hand was cut and bleeding until I took off my glove at the end of a 40-minute hike back to the bus. Albeit the ear was treated it continued to bleed during the two-hour ride back to Reykjavik. To those friends who prayed for my safe walk on the glacier, next time pray harder.
Would I hike the glacier again? It was one of the most amazing adventure experiences of my life. The exhilaration, the breathtaking view, the crevasses with their Tidy Bowl blue water far outweighed any bonk on the head.
Carrying crampons, helmet and ice pick, our small group hiked 40 minutes up to the glacier where we were given instructions on ice walking. “Walk like an American cowboy,” Daniel, our young guide, explained. “You don’t want the front spikes of your crampons digging in. Down you will go.” Next time I will listen more closely to my instructor.
Once on the ice, we crunched over some amazing terrain with crevasse, sink holes and ice ridges that a week from now will have moved in another direction. Only the crampons hitting ice broke the silence. I scooped up and drank cold, pure water from little pools.
Solheimajokull glacier is near the sleeping giant known as Katla volcano, which is overdue to erupt. Now that would have been an adventure.
Arcanum Glacier Tours offer glacier walks, snowmobiling, ice climbing, super jeep tours and ATV tours. If you are planning a trip to Iceland — and you should — go online to www.arcanum.is.
At the end of a one-and-a-half-hour hike on the Solheimajokull glacier on the south coast of Iceland, I looked around for a final view of this magnificent ice walking adventure. It was then that I caught my front spikes and headed downward, my life flashing before my eyes.
I threw my ice pick to the left; with my right hand, I swung my camera hanging around my neck to the right and turned my upper body just enough left to protect the only face that belongs to me. My left hand and my left ear connected with solid ice. Ouch! I was back on my feet before I had to take a standing eight count. Both my ear and left hand were cut. I did not know the left hand was cut and bleeding until I took off my glove at the end of a 40-minute hike back to the bus. Albeit the ear was treated it continued to bleed during the two-hour ride back to Reykjavik. To those friends who prayed for my safe walk on the glacier, next time pray harder.
Would I hike the glacier again? It was one of the most amazing adventure experiences of my life. The exhilaration, the breathtaking view, the crevasses with their Tidy Bowl blue water far outweighed any bonk on the head.
Carrying crampons, helmet and ice pick, our small group hiked 40 minutes up to the glacier where we were given instructions on ice walking. “Walk like an American cowboy,” Daniel, our young guide, explained. “You don’t want the front spikes of your crampons digging in. Down you will go.” Next time I will listen more closely to my instructor.
Once on the ice, we crunched over some amazing terrain with crevasse, sink holes and ice ridges that a week from now will have moved in another direction. Only the crampons hitting ice broke the silence. I scooped up and drank cold, pure water from little pools.
Solheimajokull glacier is near the sleeping giant known as Katla volcano, which is overdue to erupt. Now that would have been an adventure.
Arcanum Glacier Tours offer glacier walks, snowmobiling, ice climbing, super jeep tours and ATV tours. If you are planning a trip to Iceland — and you should — go online to www.arcanum.is.
Yellowstone Association Institute
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California Fall Color
This is the first California fall color report for autumn. These reports are compiled from first-hand accounts and photographs received from a corps of volunteer color spotters throughout California.
The report will be issued each week from the first week of autumn to Thanksgiving Day. Detailed reports on reporting areas and an interactive map showing the state of color change throughout California can be seen at www.californiafallcolor.com.
The following scale is used to report the overall change of color in reported areas: Just Starting, 0-10%; Patchy, 10-50%; Near Peak, 50-75%; Peak, 75-100%; and Past Peak.
Today’s rainfall provided mixed blessings for fall color watchers. The rain will serve to refresh trees whose leaves have not yet changed color, helping to extend the change of fall color, though high winds from the storm are likely to knock leaves that have already changed color, from branches, pushing areas at peak to past peak.
Fall color began peaking above 8,500 feet in the Eastern Sierra last week. Aspen groves are now at full peak (75–100 percent change) at the highest elevations of Bishop Creek Canyon, west of Bishop, including at: Weir Pond, Table Mountain Camp, Surveyors Meadow, Lake Sabrina, North Lake and the Groves above Cardinal Village.
These high canyon groves are full of red, orange, yellow and lime aspen leaves. Similarly, Mono County’s groves above 8,500 feet are showing peak colors at Rock Creek Lake, the Hilton Lakes and Sherwin Lakes. Many “near peak” (50–75 percent change) areas above 8,000 feet in elevation in both Inyo and Mono County are rapidly approaching peak.
Patchy (10 to 50 percent of change) color is seen at elevations below 8,000 feet throughout the Eastern and Northern Sierra and Shasta Cascade. Southern California’s mountains are showing early color with patchy color in the San Bernardino and San Jacinto mountains and in San Diego County at Mt. Laguna, Julian and Mt. Palomar.
The color has still to develop along California’s coastal areas, though at Elk Meadow in Redwood National and State Parks along the North Coast, the elk rut — a colorful fall mating ritual — is in full display with Roosevelt Elk bulls challenging one another for rights to mate herds of elk cows.
Northern California vineyards in the Napa and Sonoma valleys and the Sierra foothills are reporting patchy color with grape leaves beginning to turn yellow, orange, crimson and burgundy. In past years, vineyards have tended to turn color by grape variety, extending the color viewing through October and into early November.
Eastern Sierra Detail
Inyo County
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Weir Pond (9650ft) - The hillside to the west of the pond is fully turned now with a few aspens giving up for the season. The aspen on the west side of the pond have really progressed quickly making for some exceptional reflection shots with green grass contrasted with gorgeous yellow, orange and touches of red.
GO NOW! – Near Peak (50 – 75%) - Parchers Camp (9260) - Parchers Camp is probably closer to the 75% mark with some lower lying aspen yet to turn, but the hillsides surrounding the resort are on fire to both the east & west. The color here at the resort tends to stick around a while so locals are predicting at least another week of good color.
GO NOW! – Near Peak (50 – 75%) - Willow Campground (9000ft) - There is still enough green along the road and in the campground to keep this location at the near peak level but things are moving quickly with select trees showing nothing but green last week now showing peak color.
GO NOW! – Near Peak (50 – 75%) - Sabrina Campground (9000ft) - The aspen along Hwy 168 are at peak color with lots of red and orange to go along with yellow and some green from the pine. There is still quite a bit of green yet to turn along the middle fork of Bishop Creek.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Table Mountain Camp (8900ft) - Canyon walls above and around the campground are as brilliant as they're likely to get this season. Still quite a bit of greenery within the campground but it's changing incredibly fast.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Surveyors Meadow (8975ft) - Some green is still hanging tough along the road, but most of the aspen in this area have turned. The mountain to the west of South Lake Road and the trees along the creek are especially brilliant.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Lake Sabrina (9150ft) - Color towards the back of the lake near the main inlet is going off in a big way right now with lots of orange to go along with yellow, some patchy red and a bit of green. The east shore, especially the aspen lining the high mark of the reservoir are also showing some orange and red. Because this area is susceptible to wind, the color may be short lived.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - North Lake (9255ft) - There is a significant amount of lime-colored aspen along North Lake Road and along the shoreline of the lake, though the vast majority of the fall color is here now with the hillside directly above the lake, the road approaching the lake, and the campground really looking spectacular with red, orange and yellow all found here.
Patchy (10 - 50%) - Steiny Loop above Mt. Glen Camp (8600ft) - It's safe to say that about half of the color has started to go between Mt. Glen campground and the end of the Steiny Loop below Table Mt. Camp, possibly a touch more, but with the amount of green dominating the hillside at and below the campground, the area is still classified as patchy.
Patchy (10 - 50%) - Mist Falls and the groves above Bishop Creek Lodge (8350ft) - The color at the falls is a bit of the ordinary this year as just a few trees turned and are now losing their leaves while the vast majority of the color isn't showing at all yet, just some lime green.
Just Starting (0 - 10%) - Aspendell (8400ft) - Mostly lime green hued. Very few yellow is showing within this small community.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Groves above Cardinal Village (8550ft) - The color above Cardinal Village is in full effect with yellow painting the mountain from Cardinal Peak down to the mine. There is still quite a bit of green at Cardinal Village and below to Aspendell, with more good stuff to come from this beautiful area.
Just Starting – (0 - 10%) - Four Jeffries - Still early. Lots of green and lime.
Just Starting – (10 - 50%) - Intake II - Some nice color developing below the spillway at the Intake and some decent yellow on the mountain east of the lake, but the aspen surrounding the lake itself remain primarily green, although lightening somewhat over the past week.
Just Starting – (0 - 10%) - Big Trees Campground - A few early-bird trees are starting to go but barely any color here yet. This is another late blooming color location which hopefully will pop come October.
Mono County
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) – Rock Creek – Rock Creek Lake and the Rock Creek Trail are now at full peak. Lower areas of Rock Creek Canyon at are approaching peak and could go any day, now.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100&) – Hilton Lakes Trail – Same as Rock Creek.
Patchy (10-50%) Convict Lake – Aspen turning yellow along the edge of the lake.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) – Sherwin Lakes – You’ll have to do some hiking to get to where it’s at full peak. Take the Sherwin Creek Trail up to the Sherwin Lakes to get close to these peak color areas. Patchy (10 – 50%) – Sherwin Creek - Sherwin Creek in Mammoth Lakes is just above 10% with lots of lime and a little yellow.
GO NOW! – Near Peak (50 – 75%) – Green Creek – The color at Green Creek varies from patchy to near peak, so we’re alerting to Go Now!
Patchy (10 – 50-%) – Rainbow Fall and Devil’s Postpile NM – The road into Devil’s Postpile remains open until the first storms, providing viewing of the fall color in the upper San Joaquin River drainage.
GO NOW! Near Peak (50-75%) - Parker Lake - Lots of color around the lake.
Patchy (10 – 50-%) - June Lake Loop - Color is painting the upper slopes yellow. June will be nearing peak next week and into the first week of October.
Patchy (10-50%) Conway Summit - Color has progressed to 40%.
Patchy (10-50%) Sonora Pass/Hwy 108 - Showing at about 40% of color.
Shasta Cascade/Northern Sierra
Patchy (10 - 50%) - Plumas County - Plumas County is typically a mid-October peak, though early reports have already been received of orange-red Indian Rhubarb along Rock Creek, off Bucks Lake Rd; gold and orange Black Oak leaves showing at Oakland Camp; bright yellow bigleaf maple on La Porte Road, rosy dogwood in Round Valley and brilliant red sugar maple leaves in Quincy. This area of California is known for its dramatic October color.
Southern California Mountains – Patchy (10-50%) - Reports of spots of color have been received from the San Bernardino and San Jacinto Mountains, and from Mt. Laguna, Julian and Mt. Palomar in San Diego County.
California Vineyards (Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Lake, Sierra) – Patchy (10-50%) - Vineyards in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake Counties and the Sierra Foothills are reporting early signs of color.
Coastal California - Just Starting (0-10%).
— Submitted By John Poimiroo
The report will be issued each week from the first week of autumn to Thanksgiving Day. Detailed reports on reporting areas and an interactive map showing the state of color change throughout California can be seen at www.californiafallcolor.com.
The following scale is used to report the overall change of color in reported areas: Just Starting, 0-10%; Patchy, 10-50%; Near Peak, 50-75%; Peak, 75-100%; and Past Peak.
Today’s rainfall provided mixed blessings for fall color watchers. The rain will serve to refresh trees whose leaves have not yet changed color, helping to extend the change of fall color, though high winds from the storm are likely to knock leaves that have already changed color, from branches, pushing areas at peak to past peak.
Fall color began peaking above 8,500 feet in the Eastern Sierra last week. Aspen groves are now at full peak (75–100 percent change) at the highest elevations of Bishop Creek Canyon, west of Bishop, including at: Weir Pond, Table Mountain Camp, Surveyors Meadow, Lake Sabrina, North Lake and the Groves above Cardinal Village.
These high canyon groves are full of red, orange, yellow and lime aspen leaves. Similarly, Mono County’s groves above 8,500 feet are showing peak colors at Rock Creek Lake, the Hilton Lakes and Sherwin Lakes. Many “near peak” (50–75 percent change) areas above 8,000 feet in elevation in both Inyo and Mono County are rapidly approaching peak.
Patchy (10 to 50 percent of change) color is seen at elevations below 8,000 feet throughout the Eastern and Northern Sierra and Shasta Cascade. Southern California’s mountains are showing early color with patchy color in the San Bernardino and San Jacinto mountains and in San Diego County at Mt. Laguna, Julian and Mt. Palomar.
The color has still to develop along California’s coastal areas, though at Elk Meadow in Redwood National and State Parks along the North Coast, the elk rut — a colorful fall mating ritual — is in full display with Roosevelt Elk bulls challenging one another for rights to mate herds of elk cows.
Northern California vineyards in the Napa and Sonoma valleys and the Sierra foothills are reporting patchy color with grape leaves beginning to turn yellow, orange, crimson and burgundy. In past years, vineyards have tended to turn color by grape variety, extending the color viewing through October and into early November.
Eastern Sierra Detail
Inyo County
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Weir Pond (9650ft) - The hillside to the west of the pond is fully turned now with a few aspens giving up for the season. The aspen on the west side of the pond have really progressed quickly making for some exceptional reflection shots with green grass contrasted with gorgeous yellow, orange and touches of red.
GO NOW! – Near Peak (50 – 75%) - Parchers Camp (9260) - Parchers Camp is probably closer to the 75% mark with some lower lying aspen yet to turn, but the hillsides surrounding the resort are on fire to both the east & west. The color here at the resort tends to stick around a while so locals are predicting at least another week of good color.
GO NOW! – Near Peak (50 – 75%) - Willow Campground (9000ft) - There is still enough green along the road and in the campground to keep this location at the near peak level but things are moving quickly with select trees showing nothing but green last week now showing peak color.
GO NOW! – Near Peak (50 – 75%) - Sabrina Campground (9000ft) - The aspen along Hwy 168 are at peak color with lots of red and orange to go along with yellow and some green from the pine. There is still quite a bit of green yet to turn along the middle fork of Bishop Creek.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Table Mountain Camp (8900ft) - Canyon walls above and around the campground are as brilliant as they're likely to get this season. Still quite a bit of greenery within the campground but it's changing incredibly fast.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Surveyors Meadow (8975ft) - Some green is still hanging tough along the road, but most of the aspen in this area have turned. The mountain to the west of South Lake Road and the trees along the creek are especially brilliant.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Lake Sabrina (9150ft) - Color towards the back of the lake near the main inlet is going off in a big way right now with lots of orange to go along with yellow, some patchy red and a bit of green. The east shore, especially the aspen lining the high mark of the reservoir are also showing some orange and red. Because this area is susceptible to wind, the color may be short lived.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - North Lake (9255ft) - There is a significant amount of lime-colored aspen along North Lake Road and along the shoreline of the lake, though the vast majority of the fall color is here now with the hillside directly above the lake, the road approaching the lake, and the campground really looking spectacular with red, orange and yellow all found here.
Patchy (10 - 50%) - Steiny Loop above Mt. Glen Camp (8600ft) - It's safe to say that about half of the color has started to go between Mt. Glen campground and the end of the Steiny Loop below Table Mt. Camp, possibly a touch more, but with the amount of green dominating the hillside at and below the campground, the area is still classified as patchy.
Patchy (10 - 50%) - Mist Falls and the groves above Bishop Creek Lodge (8350ft) - The color at the falls is a bit of the ordinary this year as just a few trees turned and are now losing their leaves while the vast majority of the color isn't showing at all yet, just some lime green.
Just Starting (0 - 10%) - Aspendell (8400ft) - Mostly lime green hued. Very few yellow is showing within this small community.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) - Groves above Cardinal Village (8550ft) - The color above Cardinal Village is in full effect with yellow painting the mountain from Cardinal Peak down to the mine. There is still quite a bit of green at Cardinal Village and below to Aspendell, with more good stuff to come from this beautiful area.
Just Starting – (0 - 10%) - Four Jeffries - Still early. Lots of green and lime.
Just Starting – (10 - 50%) - Intake II - Some nice color developing below the spillway at the Intake and some decent yellow on the mountain east of the lake, but the aspen surrounding the lake itself remain primarily green, although lightening somewhat over the past week.
Just Starting – (0 - 10%) - Big Trees Campground - A few early-bird trees are starting to go but barely any color here yet. This is another late blooming color location which hopefully will pop come October.
Mono County
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) – Rock Creek – Rock Creek Lake and the Rock Creek Trail are now at full peak. Lower areas of Rock Creek Canyon at are approaching peak and could go any day, now.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100&) – Hilton Lakes Trail – Same as Rock Creek.
Patchy (10-50%) Convict Lake – Aspen turning yellow along the edge of the lake.
GO NOW! – Peak (75 – 100%) – Sherwin Lakes – You’ll have to do some hiking to get to where it’s at full peak. Take the Sherwin Creek Trail up to the Sherwin Lakes to get close to these peak color areas. Patchy (10 – 50%) – Sherwin Creek - Sherwin Creek in Mammoth Lakes is just above 10% with lots of lime and a little yellow.
GO NOW! – Near Peak (50 – 75%) – Green Creek – The color at Green Creek varies from patchy to near peak, so we’re alerting to Go Now!
Patchy (10 – 50-%) – Rainbow Fall and Devil’s Postpile NM – The road into Devil’s Postpile remains open until the first storms, providing viewing of the fall color in the upper San Joaquin River drainage.
GO NOW! Near Peak (50-75%) - Parker Lake - Lots of color around the lake.
Patchy (10 – 50-%) - June Lake Loop - Color is painting the upper slopes yellow. June will be nearing peak next week and into the first week of October.
Patchy (10-50%) Conway Summit - Color has progressed to 40%.
Patchy (10-50%) Sonora Pass/Hwy 108 - Showing at about 40% of color.
Shasta Cascade/Northern Sierra
Patchy (10 - 50%) - Plumas County - Plumas County is typically a mid-October peak, though early reports have already been received of orange-red Indian Rhubarb along Rock Creek, off Bucks Lake Rd; gold and orange Black Oak leaves showing at Oakland Camp; bright yellow bigleaf maple on La Porte Road, rosy dogwood in Round Valley and brilliant red sugar maple leaves in Quincy. This area of California is known for its dramatic October color.
Southern California Mountains – Patchy (10-50%) - Reports of spots of color have been received from the San Bernardino and San Jacinto Mountains, and from Mt. Laguna, Julian and Mt. Palomar in San Diego County.
California Vineyards (Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Lake, Sierra) – Patchy (10-50%) - Vineyards in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake Counties and the Sierra Foothills are reporting early signs of color.
Coastal California - Just Starting (0-10%).
— Submitted By John Poimiroo
Monday, July 21, 2014
Kuala Lumpur: Clean is an art form
Kuala Lumpur’s 1,483-foot-high Petronas Towers.
The Malaysian National Mosque where the Kelang and Gombak rivers meet.
Story & Photos By Stan Wawer
Welcome to Kuala Lumpur,
where everything is the best, the tallest or biggest in the world. Whether that
is true or not is up to interpretation. One thing is certain; KL (as it is
known) may be the cleanest city in the world.
Kuala Lumpur, a federal territory, directly under the
control of the Malaysian federal government, easily outdistances any other
large city for the title of Mr. Clean. Graffiti? You will not find it here.
Those who are caught defacing public property are punished with the loss of a
hand. A little harsh perhaps, but it works as a salient deterrent.
I traveled to Kuala Lumpur with great trepidation.
Friends and family reminded me that Malaysia was a Muslim country and as an
American, it might be wise to find someplace “safer” to travel. I’m glad that I
did not take their advice. I found KL safe, squeaky clean and friendly — and
English is the language of choice.
I walked the streets alone at night without incident
and was greeted time and time again by smiling faces. The young crowd starts
partying after midnight and continues until the sun comes up over this city of
more than 1.3 million people.
KL is a modern Asian city of beautiful skyscrapers,
including the Petronas twin towers (once the tallest building in the world),
but it retains much of its local flavor that has disappeared in other Asian
boom cities such as neighboring Singapore. KL is a mix of Moorish and modern
design.
KL has a plethora of colonial buildings in its center;
a vibrant and historical Chinatown with street vendors and night markets, a
bustling Little India and in the middle of the city, the oldest rain forest in
the world.
The city’s urban sprawl extends well beyond the
boundaries of the territory into surrounding Selangor state, particularly along
the Klang Valley — the powerhouse of the Malaysian economy, where much of the
city’s workforce and industry reside.
On my first day in KL, I took a group tour of the city
with Rosli as our guide. He took us to the King’s Palace first, about a
20-minute drive from our hotel, the Ritz-Carlton.
We arrived at the official resident of the king
greeted by a ceremonial guard on Horseback. Malaysia is a positional monarchy.
A king holds a five-year term. There are nine royal families in the country and
they rotate the ceremonial position. Yellow is the official color of royalty.
The palace is almost 50 acres and has its own golf course. The king serves as
chief of police and head of the military police. The changing of the guard
takes place every four hours.
Malaysia uses the British system of government — Lower
House (senate) and Upper House (representatives) of Parliament.
In Jalan Raja Chulan, you can explore the city’s
colonial core where even more structural marvels await you. These include the
National History Museum, Independence Square (where the Union Jack flag was
lowered and the Malayan flag was first raised after independence) and the
Sultan Abdul Samad Building — the Big Ben of KL. There is a 305-foot-high flagpole
where the Malaysia flag hangs. “It’s the highest flagpole in the world,” Rosli
said proudly. “We like to show the world we have the tallest everything.”
In the same vicinity lies the old cricket club,
Selangor Club, with its mock-Tudor architecture, plus Cathedral of Virgin St.
Mary, one of Malaysia’s oldest Anglican churches. Stroll around the area to
appreciate the other old colonial buildings with their captivating Moorish
designs.
When Malaysia was a British colony, England had its
information office in Independence Square. Malaysia was given its independence
from England in 1957. In 1974, it became a federal territory. Close by is a
building that once was a British prison but is now a police station. The
British built the city’s old train station. For obvious reasons, there is still
a strong English influence in Malaysia.
Melaka was Malaysia’s name before independence.
Overlooking Independence Square is the Bukit Aman (peace mountain) building.
The Malaysian flag has 15 red and white stripes, representing the country’s 15
states. The blue field represents harmony, yellow is royal and the star and
moon represents Islam. A memorial to Malaysia’s independence opened in August
of 2002 in KL. Malaysia’s independence day is Aug. 31.
As we drove toward Modern Chinatown, we passed a
cemetery where World War II Japanese soldiers are buried. The Modern Chinatown
area is called River of Money because of the business that takes place in the
area. The Ritz-Carlton is in the River of Money. This is KL’s Golden Triangle.
The city is in the middle of a confluence of two river mouths (Kuala Lumpur
means “muddy convergence”). The Petronas is the landmark in this area.
KL has a park where Asians had their first meeting in
the city and where the Chinese go for Tai Chi exercise. The park is more than
222 acres. In the park there are 260 species of birds — the largest number in
the world, according to Rosli.
The Islamic Heritage Museum has artifacts from all
over the world. At this site is the Malaysian national mosque. It was completed
in 1986 for 10 million Ringetts. It holds up to 10,000 people and is generally
filled on Friday.
The two rivers, the Kelang and Gombak, head straight
for the Melaka Sea. Where the two rivers join is the oldest mosque in KL, built
by the British.
Old Chinatown is in the old
part of KL. It was once the trading post for Chinese who came to KL during
British rule. It’s always been Chinatown. They have a night market that is a
beehive of activity. You can purchase knockoffs of top-name brands here.
Copyright laws have become an issue, according to Rosli — especially with CDs.
These knockoffs are openly sold here, not like in the states.
The Sri Maha Mariaman Temple is the oldest Hindu
Temple in KL. It’s in the heart of Old Chinatown. You have to leave your shoes
outside. There is a nominal fee (20 cents when I was there) to hold your shoes.
The temple is free. The Indian population in KL is about 7 percent.
We visited Royal Selangor Pewter Factory, the largest
pewter factory in the world, situated at Setapak, north of Kuala Lumpur. The
combinations of 97 percent tin and 3 percent copper and antimony makes pewter.
Young Peng Kai founded the factory. He developed pewter industry in KL in the
1930s and ’40s. There is still tin mining in Malaysia, but it’s no longer as
profitable. The famous Royal Selangor pewter, hand-made to its perfection, is
known worldwide. The factory has more than 700 skilled craftsmen producing
pewter ranging from cutlery, jugs, souvenirs, goblets and more.
Part of the process is hammering. It takes six months
to learn to hammer and the lady we watched can do 50 a day. The girl doing the
hammering has been an employee for more than 35 years.
The Petronas Towers are open Tuesday through Sunday.
You can go up to the observation deck or to the skybridge, which is 558 feet
up. Above that point are offices.
The twin towers are 1,483 feet high and 88 stories. We had lunch at KL Tower
(one of the world’s tallest towers at 1,403 feet), which overlooks the city.
Four of us were wearing shorts, which is a no-no in the restaurant. They had
drawstring, baggy, flowery pants for us to wear. High fashion. A KL gentleman,
who does business in Allentown, PA, asked us if we got two pair free for the
purchase of two pair. Everyone enjoyed a nice laugh at our expense.
I learned quickly that the scooter is KL’s favorite mode of
transportation. They are everywhere, scooting in and out of traffic.
Malaysia has one of the most beautiful and modern
airports in the world. A clean, high-speed train zips you along the countryside
into Kuala Lumpur. Sunday on the way in by train, we passed some low-income
housing. People had laundry hanging from their balconies, but almost every
balcony had a satellite dish.
Welcome to the 21st century.
If You Go
The rate of exchange is 3.22 Ringetts to the US
dollar.
Malaysia Airlines flies from LAX to Kuala Lumpur, with
a stopover in Taipei, Taiwan. Check flights and prices on www.malaysiaairlines.com.
Where to Stay
The Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur. It is the first
all-butler hotel in Malaysia and includes complimentary continental breakfast
served in your room. For more information, go online at www.ritzcarlton.com. The JW Marriott is
on Bintang Walk in the heart of the “Golden Triangle.” Go online at
www.marriott.com.
All information is accurate at
the time of publication but prices, dates and other details are all subject to
change. Confirm all information before making any travel arrangements.
Jellyfish Rule at Monterey Bay Aquarium
The jellyfish exhibit at the Monterey Bay Aquarium is beyond fabulous. The aquarium is one of the finest of its kind in the world.You will want to check out Tentacles, the newest exhibit at the aquarium. It opened April 12 and replaced the seahorse exhibit. It features octopus, squid and cuttlefish.
Scenic 17-Mile Drive
The 250-year-old Lone Cypress along 17-Mile Drive.
A bucolic scene on 17-Mile Drive.
Story & Photos By Stan
Wawer
It’s only a 17-mile stretch but
it is one of the most scenic and breathtaking highways in the world. Spanning
the California coast between Pacific Grove and Carmel, 17-Mile Drive offers
serendipity around every turn. The $10 toll per auto is one of the best $10 you
will ever spend.
All information is accurate at
the time of publication but prices, dates and other details are all subject to
change. Confirm all information before making any travel arrangements.
Thursday, February 27, 2014
Stay and Play Package
The Furnace Creek Resort in Death Valley National Park is offering the perfect way to combine the world’s lowest golf course with the historic AAA Four Diamond Inn at Furnace Creek or the family-friendly Ranch at Furnace Creek.
The popular Stay and Play package at the desert oasis resort features accommodations, unlimited golf per day at the Furnace Creek Golf Course, 18-hole cart rental and club storage. Rates start at $102.50 per person at the Ranch and $205 at the Inn and are based on double occupancy in a standard room. The Stay & Play Package is also available for other room types at both lodging complexes. Rates do not include applicable tax.
The Inn at Furnace Creek is open until Mother’s Day when it closes for the season. It will reopen in mid-October. The Ranch at Furnace Creek is open year round.
This package may not be combined with other offers. Some restrictions and blackout dates apply. Reserve this package online at www.furnacecreekresort.com using the promo code “GOLF” or by calling toll-free to (800) 236-7916 or from outside the U.S. to (303) 297-2757 and refer to the promo code “GOLF.”
At 214 feet below sea level, the Furnace Creek Golf Course is the lowest golf course in the world. It has achieved the designation “Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary” from the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary System, the educational division of Audubon International. To achieve certification, a course must demonstrate it is maintaining a high degree of environmental quality in the areas of environmental planning, wildlife and habitat management, outreach and education, reduced chemical use and safety, water conservation and water quality management.
The 18-hole Furnace Creek Golf Course measures 6,236 yards from the back tees with a course rating of 69.7 and a slope rating of 117. Although a relatively short course, the low elevation and challenging greens earned it a place on Golf Digest’s list of “America’s 50 Toughest Courses.” Because the golf ball does not fly as far as it does at sea level and higher elevation courses, players must adjust their club selections as well as their mental approaches. The course also features small greens, strategically placed palm and tamarisk trees and water hazards on nine holes. Originally opened in 1931, the course underwent a major renovation in 1997 under the direction of world-renowned golf course architect Perry Dye. — Submitted by Mona Mesereau
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